Gonzalo Figueroa and Nina Maria Eidheim...LA to BAUPDATE 8, Huaraz, Peru |
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Gonzalo and Nina reappear once again. Last time we wrote the electricity went in Ecuador and we lost the entire text. The next time we sat down to give it another try, we found out one of our dearest friends had died. Now, a month later, we are trying again. Below you will find a series of vignettes, random thoughts, and loose comments which we hope will give you an impression of what is going on in our lives. -On our last e-mail we mentioned we were looking for gold somewhere in Southern Costa Rica. Well, we found it. The thing is its green -and not yellow. We hiked 50km into the jungle and found what we both thought no longer existed on earth. The most exquisite place on the planet, the last remaining pacific jungle in the Americas. This was so true that when we were on our way to Panama, we just had to buy a little plot of land: 3,5 hectares near the border with Panama, 3,5 hectares in paradise. We hope one day to build a small house here, or if not, just keep pitching our tent as we have done now for so many years. We thank Alex del Sol and Elvin and Sylvia very much for helping us out and giving us this opportunity. -Panama is like the Brazil of Central America. Laid back, sensual, cool and sexy. We really liked the Panamanians, especially those hanging out in the Casco Viejo, the old colonial part of town. We had a great time at the Hotel Central, an icon in this neighbourhood which I hope they never turn into a posh, up-class place where the likes of the pompous Bruce Chatwin may hang out. (Sorry Chatwin lovers) -Besides the Casco Viejo, modern Panama City looks and feels like one huge money laundering operation. Welcome all you dictators, presidents, drug-kings and other sneaky people!!! -Speaking of laundering, I have not washed my clothes since Costa Rica. We are now in Peru. Nina has refused to walk anymore by my side. I will find a launderette for the sake of love. -For all of you wondering how we got across the Darien Gap, well, we were not very original. We airlifted the motorcycle to Quito, Ecuador. We were set on going to Cali, Colombia but at the last minute I saw the newspaper headlines: "Massive road kidnapping in Santa Marta". This reminded me of the kidnapping of our fellow friend and motorcyclist Ricardo Rocco and we decided the obvious. Anyhow, if I were to have been kidnapped I guess I would have spent a long time in Colombia, since I don't know of many willing to give very much to set me loose. -For Motorcyclists: sending the bike from Panama with Girag Cargo was easier than sending a letter. Write me for details if you want. We have a bunch of info. and prices for Colombia, Ecuador, Santiago, etc. from Panama. -Customs in Quito, Ecuador is for masochists. These guys will do their utter best to make you have a bad time. It took us 7 hours to get our bike out of customs and by then I was screaming and yelling for my citizens rights. For motorcyclists: if going to Quito, DO NOT follow the standard procedure like any other Tom, Dick and Harry. Go up the stairs and ask to speak to the "Gerente" (or Manager). Currently his name is Doctor Corral. Explain your intentions and have him start the procedure. Otherwise you will fall in the hands of a series of young ladies asking for the "triptico" (Carnet) and then you are screwed. Write me if you want more details. -South America was an enormous change from Central America. In the first 3 months of travel we had only 2 days with rain and cold. In South America we were immediately engulfed by the rainy season and it has become difficult to run away from rain in the highlands. This is partially affecting our route planning and partially affecting our mood. When it rains at 3000 meters its as if somebody turned on the shower. -We are currently in Huaraz, Peru. I am amazed at how Peruvians have managed to keep their welcoming smiles. For 10 years, ex-president Fujimori and his National Security Director, a sinister fellow called Vladimiro Montesinos pillaged and raped the country. Maybe I am more sensitive at the moment, maybe I am just being objective: I find Peru to be in a dire situation. Poverty acquires a new meaning down here. Fujimori escaped to Japan and cannot be extradited. Montesinos, that bastard, is at large, probably with a new face, new identity and you know what? With 60 companies in... You guessed it: Panama! -What the future holds: we will probably be heading south along the coast of Peru, as I said, running from the rain. We will unfortunately have to go through Lima to get some new tires. The old ones are about to retire after 15.000km of faithful service. Lima has been described as follows: "A Hole", "A dump", "Hell", "Oh Man..." -despite some colonial architecture. If we make it out, we intend to spend some time in Cuzco. And maybe, we'll make it there for my birthday on march 26. -We would like to send a big hello to all our friends and specially to all the friends we have made on the road who have helped us out. Un abrazo, Gonzalo y Nina March 18, 2001, Huaraz, Peru. |
